Chess for Beginners

Month: August 2010

  • The Philidor Position

    The Lucena and Philidor positions are the most important positions to know when it comes to rook and pawn endings. Here we will be looking at the Philidor position, which allows Black to draw against an opponent that is up a pawn. It’s important to note that the Philidor position only works if the opponent’s pawn has not reached the 6th rank.


    Black to move and draw

    1…Rb6 This move keeps that White King off the 6th rank. [2.Rg7 Ra6 3.Rg6 Rxg6 Heading into a drawn King and pawn endgame. 4.Kxg6 Ke7 ] The Black rook heads to the first rank, to begin checking the White King. With the White pawn having been pushed, White does not have any cover from the upcoming Black rook checks.

    2.e6

    2…Rb1

    3.Kf6 Rf1+ 4.Ke5 Re1+ 5.Kd6 Rd1+ =

  • New York 1924

      New York 1924 has gone down in history as one of the most important chess tournaments of all time. Three undisputed world champions including Capablanca and Emanuel Lasker, and a briliantly annotated  by future world champoin Alexander Alekhine. I have made the PGN of all of the games available here.

  • Think Like a Chess Engine

    In Kotov’s great book “Think Like a Grandmaster” he taught the average chess player the inner workings of how a chess master thinks about a position by creating a tree of candidates and then proceeding along the tree. While there is much to learn from Kotov’s work, I have always been facinated how computers can evaluate positions and how their positional play is derived from these material evaluation algorithms. I believe that the way chess engines derive material evaluations might help the lower rated amateur improve their evaluation skills.

    Below is a combination of the Crafty chess engine algorithms as well as Larry Kaufman’s material evaluation processes which is used by the Rybka engine.

    Pawns

    Pawn = 1

    isolated pawn penalty based on file:
    a-pawn : -.12
    b-pawn : -.14
    c-pawn : -.16
    d-pawn : -.20
    e-pawn : -.20
    f-pawn : -.16
    g-pawn : -.14
    h-pawn : -.12

    Doubled pawn (and not also isolated) penalty of -.12 plus add isolated pawn penalty

    Backward pawns -.06 penalty +.04 bonus for attack on backward pawn on semi-open file.

    Pawn advance in center +.04 / rank increasing to about +.08 / rank in the endgame
    Development

    Rook pawn is worth 15% less than a regular pawn (.85 of a pawn) (L.Kaufman)

    Knights

    Knights = 3.25
    Centralized knight: +.30
    In outpost : +.08

    Unpaired knight is worth approximately 3.14 pawns (worth less) (L.Kaufman)

    Bishops

    Bishops = 3.25
    Bishop in endgame +.10
    Bad bishop : -.04
    Corner bishop : 0.0
    Center bishop: +.3
    Attacking / good bishop: +.18
    Attack against King: +.05

    The Bishop Pair

    Bishop pair: +.50  Bishop pair is worth .50 more if not pieces exist to exchange them (L.Kaufman)

    Bishop pair is worth less than .50 a pawn when most or all of the pawns are on the board, and more than .50 pawns when half or more of the pawns are gone (L.Kaufman)

    If you have the bishop pair, and your opponent’s single bishop is a bad bishop (hemmed in by his own pawns), you already have full compensation for 1 pawn (L.Kaufman)

    Unpaired bishop is worth approximately 3.14 pawns (worth less) (L.Kaufman)

    Rooks

    Rooks = 5
    Attacking on open-file: +.20
    One semi-open file: +.10
    On open-file: +.14

    Rook and Bishop is better than the Rook and Knight. (L.Kaufman)

    Queen

    Queen = 9.75

    Queen and Knight is slightly better than Queen and Bishop

    King
    Centralized in opening: -.24
    Centralized in endgame: +.36
    On open file in opening: -.23
    No adjacent pawns: -.08

    Special Cases

    Hanging pieces: -.10

    Exchanges favor the side with a material advantage

    Minor pieces lose their value as the endgame approaches

    In endgames with no other piece the bishop is worth about 2.5 and the knight 2.25 with other pieces the minors are worth about 3.25

    Rooks gain value as the endgame approaches

    Note: I have modified the Crafty point values to reflect the Kaufman values.

    Resources

    Evaluation of Material Imbalances in Chess

    GNU Chess Positional Heuristics

    http://chessprogramming.wikispaces.com/Evaluation

    http://www.chessvariants.com/d.betza/pieceval/index.html

  • Logical Chess Move by Move (PGN Download)

    I just posted a PGN file with all 33 games of Irving Chernev’s Logical Chess Move by Move. You can access the downloads section here. The games are unannotated and are for following along with the book.

  • Training Insights

    Update: 8/7/2010:
    I have been following my own advice for the past two weeks, and I have to say that my training is more focused than ever, and I am beginning to see tangible improvements over the board. If you are interested, I am continuing to post my weekly training schedule at my Chess Notebook site.

    Original Post 7/27/2010

    I have slightly modified my training in the last week to include a new way of training tactics and a method to focus my training time.

    A New Way of Training Tactics

    I came across a forum post by IM David Pruess where he gives excellent advice on truly learning patterns when training tactics. Below is his advice:
    The original post is titled Chess Advice Most Chess Player’s Don’t Like to Hear and it’s a must read.

    or when i give players in the 1000-1800 range advice on improving their tactics, viz: 10-15 min per day of solving simple tactical puzzles. the goal is to increase your store of basic patterns, not to work on your visualization, deep calculation. remember that is your goal. you are not trying to prove that you can solve every problem. if you don’t solve a problem within 1 minute, stop. it’s probably a new pattern or you would have gotten it by now. (with private students i’ll take the time to demonstrate this to them: show them through examples that they can find a 3-4 move problem in 10 seconds if they know the pattern, and that they can fail to find a mate in 2 for 10 minutes if they don’t know the pattern). look at the answer, and now go over the answer 3 more times in your head to help the pattern take hold. your brain can probably take on 2-3 new patterns between sleeping, so you should stop once you’ve been stumped by 2 or 3 problems (usually will take about 10-15 min). there is no point in doing more than that in one day. and any day you miss, you can’t make up for. a semi-random estimate on my part is that you need about 2000 of these patterns to become a master. so you need to do this for 2 years or more.

    i would guess that less than 1 in 100 of the people i have given this advice to have followed it to the letter. if they enjoy it, they’ll waste their time doing it for 1.5 hours in a day, choosing to ignore that it’s not helping them [after 15 min]. or some with ego issues will insist on trying to solve every single position (if only they linked their ego to their self-discipline Tongue out).

    – IM David Pruess

    A Specific CurriculumWhile I am disciplined in spending a minimum of 30 minutes per day doing chess studies, I am usually jumping from book to book and topic to topic which ends up losing valuable time. In the past I have tried to work from a training schedule, but the problem has been that the schedule has been too general. What I started doing is creating a specific training curriculum, where I create a schedule 2 weeks into the future, with the exact content I should cover everyday (an example can be seen here).  The schedule is created on a Sunday, and it takes no more than 15 minutes to create.

  • The Bishop Pair Versus Bishop and Knight